We use some of the world’s finest leathers,
and equally high-quality supporting materials.
So what about the tools used to make the bags?
In this post,
I will briefly explain
which tool brands Hermès artisans use,
how they are used at different stages,
and why premium tools matter,
before showing you
the tools we use at Thierry Studio.
Vergez Blanchard
Vergez Blanchard is a French leatherworking-tool maker founded in 1823.
It produces top-quality leatherworking tools
and is widely respected by workshops and artisans around the world.
Hermès uses Vergez Blanchard tools to create products of the highest standard.
There are so many stages involved in making a bag
that I will focus on just a few of the most important.
Once the pattern has been prepared,
(a pattern is a flat drawing on paper of each piece before assembly),
the leather is cut and skived to match.
For this, a Vergez Blanchard round knife
or fourreau knife is used.
The blade must be extremely sharp for cutting, so it needs frequent sharpening on a whetstone.
If the cut is not smooth,
the edge will be slightly uneven,
lowering the quality of the finished product.
Cutting smoothly, cleanly and to precise measurements
is the first stage of making the bag,
and an exceptionally important one
that affects its overall quality.
This essential task requires a knife,
and the Vergez Blanchard fourreau is one of the tools used for it.
Hermès uses a hand-sewing technique called saddle stitching.
Before stitching,
holes for the needle and thread must be marked at precise intervals.
The tool used for this is called a griffe, or pricking iron.
Different parts of the bag require different pricking-iron sizes.
Using the wrong one results in uneven-looking work.
The artisan therefore needs to know the correct size for each area and mark the holes precisely.
The key is to keep every stitch hole
evenly spaced and perfectly aligned.
Because this is done by hand, it is very difficult without experience.
The iron is positioned in a perfectly straight line and tapped with a mallet,
then repositioned and tapped again,
repeating the process.
Even at a glance, you can see how much skill and handwork it takes.
Besides the fourreau and pricking irons,
there are tools for shaping the ends of the straps,
such as end punches,
diamond awls for opening the marked stitch holes,
and heated creasing tips for adding lines,
among others.
Many tools are used throughout the process,
and each one can be incredibly expensive.
The pricking irons in this photo cost around US$150–370 each.
That is approximately US$150–370 per tool.
Compared with ordinary leatherworking tools,
those prices can seem extraordinary.
Does Hermès use them simply because they are expensive?
Of course not.
The quality of the finish achieved with premium tools
differs from what ordinary tools can produce,
which is why artisans invest in them.
That does not mean they insist on using only Vergez Blanchard, of course!
It is a mainstay,
but tools from other respected brands are used too.
Thierry Studio takes the same approach.
Throughout the process,
we use Vergez Blanchard and other imported tools, and can show proof.
We make no compromises
and put our hearts into every piece.
All you need to do is enjoy using it.
That is our promise!
